Even among white shirts, the impression around the face changes between a button-down, a forward-point collar and a collar that opens widely to each side. When looking for a pre-owned Brooks Brothers shirt, considering where you will wear it alongside size and fabric can make it easier to narrow the field.
Will you wear it without a tie on weekends, under a jacket for work, or for a more formal occasion? This article approaches button-down, forward-point and spread collars through use rather than history. The Ainsley collar seen on Brooks Brothers shirts is also introduced within the spread family.
Enjoy the curve of a button-down collar
A button-down secures each collar point with a small button. Brooks Brothers calls it the Polo Collar Shirt; its origin is covered elsewhere. Brooks Brothers Japan: Polo Collar Shirt
One attraction is the curve made by the fastened collar, commonly called the roll. It gives the neckline a softer expression and works easily without a tie. Brooks Brothers Japan also highlights the roll and its usefulness worn open-necked. Brooks Brothers Japan styling guide
An Oxford Polo Collar Shirt can be worn on its own at weekends or under a blazer when you want a little more structure. A tie also works, especially with a blazer in an American trad outfit. That does not make it right for every formal setting; for a more formal occasion, first consider a forward-point or spread collar without buttons at the points.
Button-down collars do not all have the same length
Assuming every Brooks Brothers button-down has the same collar length can lead to a different impression when the shirt arrives. A 1995 US catalogue described the original button-down as 3 3/8 inches (about 8.6 cm) and a shorter version as 3 inches (about 7.6 cm). Short collars were therefore not limited to recent lines.
A longer collar point has more presence; a shorter one looks more compact. The roll, however, also depends on button placement, cloth and interlining. A short collar can still be worn with a tie.
These measurements are specifications found in that 1995 catalogue. They do not divide every Brooks Brothers collar from every era into only two types. For a pre-owned shirt, compare the actual collar length and its shape with the points buttoned.
The forward-point collar is a basic shape directed toward the front
A forward-point or regular collar has no point buttons and opens less widely than a spread collar. Its points face forward and can frame a tie in a restrained way.
Brooks Brothers US has sold men's dress shirts described as having a Forward Point Collar. This term is a useful clue when searching for what Japanese shops call a regular collar, but the name alone does not mean every example has the same length or spread. Brooks Brothers US Forward Point example
If you prefer points that face forward rather than a widely opened collar, consider this shape. In white broadcloth it can suit a suit and tie for work or a formal occasion, subject to the dress code. If worn open-necked, also check how the collar sits with the top button undone; point length and fabric affect the result as much as the name.
A spread collar makes a clean, open neckline
A spread collar opens widely from side to side. It has no buttons at the points and leaves room around a tie knot.
Brooks Brothers also uses the name English Spread Collar. With a pre-owned shirt, do not infer one fixed angle or length from the name; examine that shirt's photographs. Brooks Brothers US English Spread example
It is a strong candidate for a neat suit-and-tie outfit, but the knot does not have to be large. Consider how your usual tie will sit in the opening. A spread collar can also be worn without a tie; if you intend to leave the top button open, check how the points settle with a jacket and when the shirt is worn alone.
The Ainsley is a moderately open semi-spread collar
The Ainsley Collar found on Brooks Brothers shirts also has no buttons at the points. Brooks Brothers Japan describes examples as semi-wide collars and lists Ainsley in the specifications, while Brooks Brothers US describes Ainsley as a traditional spread collar. Brooks Brothers Japan Ainsley example, Brooks Brothers US Ainsley example
For choosing, it is useful to think of it as a moderately open collar between a regular and a wide collar. This translates the semi-wide description into a practical guide; it does not mean the angle is an exact halfway point.
English Spread and Ainsley are separately named by Brooks Brothers, so do not treat every collar in the broad spread family as identical. The Japanese Ainsley example above lists a 7.0 cm collar length, but that measures the collar point, not the spread angle. For someone seeking a collar without point buttons for a suit but not yet comfortable with a very wide opening, Ainsley can be a useful option.
Consider purpose through fabric and colour as well
Collar shape does not determine the whole impression. An Oxford button-down and a plain white Broadcloth spread collar differ through both fabric and collar.
For relaxed weekend wear, an Oxford button-down is an accessible choice. Plain white Broadcloth can be harder to use casually but suits a more formal outfit. A white Broadcloth forward-point or spread collar is a candidate with a suit and tie.
For a formal occasion, first consider a white Broadcloth shirt without buttons at the collar points rather than a button-down. But for black tie and other settings that specify the front and cuffs, white Broadcloth alone is not sufficient; choose the specifications required by the dress code. Workwear likewise depends on the workplace: a blazer and button-down may be natural in one office, while a suit and spread collar fit another.
With a pre-owned shirt, inspect the collar fastened and open
For a button-down, use a photograph with the point buttons fastened to inspect the roll. For forward-point and spread collars, examine the direction of the points, the opening and how the fold settles. If you will wear it without a tie, an image with the top button open is useful.
Even within one collar type, length, interlining, fabric, laundering and wear change the appearance. Rather than expecting a pre-owned shirt to match a new model photograph, judge its present expression in the listing photographs.
Check wear and soiling along the fold and damage at the points. On a button-down, inspect the point buttons and buttonholes. If the collar accepts stays, check the description when their presence matters. If you will fasten the top button, neck size also matters; after finding the collar you like, confirm both the size label and actual measurements.
Knowing the collar names is less important than choosing one for the way you will wear it. Seen from that perspective, the differences among Brooks Brothers collars become part of everyday use.